Revisiting Neapolitan Haunts

   There is nothing better than staying in one place long enough to really get to know it, to return to places again and again, to get to know the people there, and they you.

That is why we returned to Naples, this time for two weeks. 

Same neighbourhood, upgraded flat, but close enough to our favourite haunts.

Rather than the seven-minute walk up a steep hill to Bar Posillipo, it’s a 10 minute walk on (mostly) even ground, from our flat to the neighbourhood commercial area we visit every day, for fresh fruit and veg, for sandwiches and beer from the deli, for a glass of prosecco at Bar Posillipo.

The first time we poked our heads into Bar Posillipo this trip, Anna Maria was at her usual post, behind the cash register.  She looked up and immediately recognised us, with a big smile.

 

“We were expecting you last autumn,” she said. We told her about my misstep as she brought out our ‘usuals’ to the outside table we always choose.

That's the hill we had to climb
everyday last trip

We met her husband. We said hello to the same staff who were all there 18 months ago. They all know I like to drink a glass (or two) of prosecco.

Have I mentioned aperitivo? This is the Italian version of cocktail peanuts or pretzels back home.  Here, they bring small bowls of very nice olives, one of potato chips and one of mini pizzas.

If you’re not careful, you won’t need to eat dinner.

We made a point of returning to Bar Posillipo almost every afternoon, to see our friends.

We also learned that Anna Maria and I have the same birthday in late July (I’m 13 years older but hey, a Leo’s a Leo right?) We’re planning to celebrate together next summer, in Naples, for my 75th.

Next door is the green grocer, usually run by two attractive women

This time of year they have punts of wild strawberries and fresh artichoke hearts, among the well-stocked bins of fruits and vegetables. 

There are two birds who sing in their cages to all passers-by, plus a knot of six-year-old girls who play (and sometimes fight) loudly, annoying the old fart sitting a few metres away. 

The shop next to the green grocer is a deli with a nice old guy behind the counter who makes up a super sandwich.  His name is Raphaele and he has befriended Scott because he appreciates Scott’s speaking Italian to him.

Even the woman behind the till here - who rarely smiles - actually smiles at Scott now. 

They remember us. (At least they remember Scott!)

The third place in which we spent more than one or two meals is Nonna Elena (nonna is Italian for grandmother).

  There is no English menu at Nonna Elena.

There are two restaurants, after Nonna Elena, where we love to linger, especially on a sunny Neapolitan afternoon.

The first one we found by accident, walking to the west, away from the city, along Via Posillipo. 

The restaurant is nestled among fruit trees, grape vines and situated under just-blooming wisteria when we visit them again on this trip.

They boast that many of their offerings are ‘zero kilometro’, meaning they are within a kilometre from the restaurant. In fact, some of the wine they serve is made from the vines just off the balcony where we’re eating. Their rosato (rosé) is yummy.

These guys also offer calamaretti which we like to begin with.  And pretty much everything else is fresh seafood, fresh pasta, fresh tomatoes . . . It’s a little early in the season for sea urchin, which Scott craves. 

And honestly, the view can’t be beat.

We visited them again twice this time around, taking our nephew J with us on a sunny day.

The one other restaurant we always try to visit at least twice is an elegant place tucked into the cliffs of Marechiaro (Clear Sea).

We learned about this one from a friendly stranger coming home on the bus back up to Posillipo from town on our 2023 trip. She and Scott got to talking and she alit at the same stop we did near Bar Posillipo.  She told us about this little enclave about half an hour’s walk down a steep hill from Rosiello.  

‘A Fenestella (it means ‘a window’ in Latin) is named after a Neapolitan love song about a young man singing under the window of his love

This is the namesake window

It is by far our favourite place to dine, right on the water. 

We took our nephew here too.

The views are spectacular and it is the place to be seen, especially on a sunny Sunday.

When we visited in ‘23, we made friends with our young waiter and his wife (also a server there). 

They gave us two espresso cups the first time we dined.  The second time we were given limoncello in two ceramic shot glasses.  All branded with ‘A Fenestella.

When we came this time, Scott showed the photo to the manager and he called the young waiter and his wife over to see.  He remembered! He also explained to our current waiter to ‘take good care of us’. Of course he did! 

I had a wonderful starter of smoked goose breast with pasta after. Scott had half a lobster with pasta. We were in heaven.

The second time we visited, I had the lobster and we managed a photo with our new best friend, the new waiter.