Naples Chapter Six

 On the town

We came to really enjoy careening down the hill on the No. 140 bus from Posillipo to Via Santa Lucia, where we normally began our walks around town. The bus stop is close to the waterside (Lungomare, more of that shortly) and easy walking to many historic and interesting places. Here are just a few of the places we visited:

Castille Nuovo ‒ I took an online course last year, through the Victoria & Albert Museum that covered the art and architecture of the late Gothic and early Renaissance. One of the architectural achievements I learned about was this old fortress castle on the water’s edge in Naples.  This ‘new castle’ was the seat of power in the Kingdom of Naples under King Alfonso V of Aragon.  He added onto the castle after invading the Kingdom and ousting the current rulers from Anjou.  He commemorated this victory by building the castle’s strange and beautiful ‘triumphal entry’. At the same time he also changed his title to King Alfonso I of the Kingdom of Naples, and was responsible for a period of prosperity and cultural flourishing there. Libraries, universities and the arts thrived under his patronage.

But I can’t help but think that the triumphal arch looks a little silly squeezed in there.  What do you think?

That skinny little white bit is the 
Triumphful Arch

The National Archaeological Museum of Naples ‒ Now this is a museum! 

Considering that Naples was an important city in the Ancient Roman Empire, there is much to see here. Greek, Egyptian, Etruscan, prehistoric and protohistoric exhibits . . . no wonder this museum is considered one of the most important archaeological museums in the world!

But of course, I was mostly interested in everything taken from Pompeii.  There are some exquisite mosaics and frescoes.  Two rooms we really wanted to see were closed the day we were there: The house of the Faun and the Secret Room. The house of the Faun exhibit contains most of the exquisite mosaics, frescoes and other decorative items from one of the largest and elaborate private houses in Pompeii. 

The second, well, it’s called the Secret Room for a reason: it’s a large and unique collection of 250 sexually-themed objects, mainly dug out during the excavations of Pompeii and Herculaneum. Porno at its Ancient Roman best!

We’re going back to see them both.

The Spanish Quarters ‒ Built to house the armies of the Spanish when they ruled Naples in the 1600s, these cramped quarters in 5- and 6-story buildings are now home to some of Naples’ poorest residents. But the area has its own vibrant culture too.

Too many people!

And it’s where you’ll find the Maradona wall ‒ Maradona, the famous Argentine soccer player, came to play for Naples in the twilight of his career.  He was already in pretty bad shape from drugs and had suspected ties with the local mafia.  But he is one major hero to the Neopolitains because he helped clinch the national football title twice during his time in Naples.  He helped raise the spirits of his adopted citizens by beating the northern clubs of Turin and Milan, historically the more affluent rivals who looked down on the poor southerners.  He was also a hero off the pitch, engaging in activities to support underprivileged children, growing up as he did impoverished in Argentina. 

So. This Wall.  It’s grown into a true tourist mecca.  Terribly crowded with all who want to make the pilgrimage to see their hero.

Mergellina ‒ This neighbourhood has been a prized piece of real estate since before the Roman Empire and certainly during it!  

It includes a small boat harbour (some not small at all. We're talking major yachts) where one might encounter the cat lady (loyally feeding the dozens of feral cats along the breakwater) or sampling freshly shucked oysters from the old couple on the harbour’s edge.  

Lungomare ‒ This is a grand avenue perfect for strolling in the evenings, joining in the passeggiata with the locals.  The passeggiata, a tradition all over Italy, is more than just a walk. It’s a social ritual where people - often with generations of family - take a leisurely walk along the promenades, to socialise, relax and enjoy the evening air. It’s an important part of Italian culture because it reflects a sense of community and the enjoyment of life’s simple pleasures.

Souvenir hawkers also abound, selling gewgaws including keychains with the famous cornicello, a red coral horn symbolising good luck. The good luck part won’t work unless it’s a gift. In other words, you can’t buy good luck. 

This photo hangs in our fave pizza place, Nonna Elena up in Posillipo: it depicts Vesuvius spewing cornicelli.